FOR SOME unknown reason I had the impression that Lula in Bridport was simply a tea and cake place, so would it cut the mustard for a proper lunch out?

I recall several previous incarnations of the premises (down the steps to the basement underneath the dentist’s in East Street), and this one is light and airy and doesn’t feel at all subterranean.

There was tea, there was cake; much cake, according to the blackboard, but there was also a jolly good choice of lunch dishes.

It’s worth mentioning that my companion is vegetarian, but it is a testament to the interesting choices on offer that we didn’t even have to discuss the meatless nature of any of the options – we both just went for what we liked the look of.

As well as the menu card the specials are all on chalkboards and one board gives an impressive list of the local suppliers and what they contribute to the bill of fare. We decided we couldn’t both manage three courses, so my friend picked the leek and potato soup with watercress as a starter, which left poor old me with a pud to look forward to.

The soup looked lovely, swirled with cream and came with very decent slices of organic toasted bread and butter. It was pronounced delicious and would have made a perfect light lunch on its own.

For my main course I chose smoked haddock fishcakes. When will I ever learn? I picked the large portion instead of the regular, which when it arrived proved to be two beautiful, generous, almost tennis ball sized crispy cakes served with a simple watercress salad, herb oil dressing and a crème fraiche tartare sauce which was a really good alternative to the usual mayonnaise-based version.

My companion’s choice was roasted tomato, courgette and goats cheese frittata and the plate was a riot of colour with a summer salad, olives, home-made coleslaw. The frittata, in two big, chunky slices, was full of big pieces of veg, with plenty of bite. And tempting as it was, there was no problem for Lula’s friendly staff in wrapping the second slice in foil to be taken home.

Well, despite my more than satisfying fishcakes, a deal’s a deal. And so to pud. A slice of frangipane raspberry tart with fresh berries was served just warm, as it should be. It was almondy, with tart berries alongside and full marks for providing a separate tiny jug of pouring cream for those of us who don’t want our desserts drowned in dairy.

My friend had a great coffee and we left well-fed and happy. And there’s always the cakes to try out another day!

Lula, 53 East Street, Bridport DT6 3JX. Call 01308 459999.

 

My Lula bill: Leek, potato and watercress soup £4.95 Roasted veg frittata £8.50
Smoked haddock fishcakes £9.50
Frangipane and raspberry tart £5.95
Drinks and coffee £6.30
TOTAL: £37.20