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10:07am Thursday 10th December 2009
SLOW Food doesn’t get much more leisurely than the latest addition to the menu at the BridgeHouse Hotel.
Ever dedicated to local grub with a quirky slant, the Beaminster hotel has introduced a winter dish with a distinctive, molluscular twist.
The Snail Breakfast consists of a piece of lightly fried bread topped with fresh snails and a quail egg, accompanied by mushrooms, black pudding, a piece of bacon and a grilled cherry tomato.
All the ingredients come from local sources.
The bread is baked each day at the hotel, the meats come from Beaminster butcher Nick Tett, the eggs from a supplier in Sherborne, the tomatoes from Washingpool Farm Shop and the all-important snails from Dorset Escargot, which is based at Witchampton in East Dorset.
Mark Donovan, who runs the BridgeHouse with his wife Jo, said: “We are so lucky to live here and be surrounded by so many wonderful local providers.”
He hopes the new breakfasts will be seen as a very British alternative to the traditionally French image of snails served in shells with garlic butter.
Mark said: “Fresh snails taste totally different to tinned ones. If you go to a French restaurant, the chances are you will be served tinned snails and the taste is different. Tinned snails need garlic butter but fresh ones have a taste of their own and are so succulent.”
At the BridgeHouse, chef Stephen Pielesz poaches the snails in a vegetable bouillon for an hour until they are tender and sautes them in garlic and parsley butter.
He said: “We wanted to get away from the classic French way of serving them, so instead we have come up with a great British dish with a subtle twist to it.
“We have a brasserie here, which has a French background so we do try and get a flavour of France on the menu. The frog’s legs go down well – children in particular seem to like them.”
The BridgeHouse Hotel’s Snail Breakfast, accompanied by a pot of good coffee, is a wonderfully light alternative to the traditional ‘full English’.
The dish comes beautifully presented – a square of fried home-made bread topped with snails and a quail egg, surrounded by quarters of field mushroom, a piece of bacon, grilled cherry tomato and a slice of black pudding – and cooked to perfection.
The BridgeHouse Snail Breakfast is £6.95 a head.
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